The Katie Purse – View B Tutorial

This is View B of The Katie Purse pattern made up in silk charmeuse. Its so fun to find old scraps in my stash to make this bag, since it doesn’t take much fabric! I really love the way this one turned out, for some reason I find it has a 90s feel to it, maybe its the colour? or the satin?

dsc_0153 dsc_0160 dsc_0097 dsc_0103Since my fabric was pretty slinky, I chose to interfere it. This isn’t necessary, I just found it made this fabric more manageable. If you’re using something like a brocade or taffeta you wouldn’t have to worry about this. I used a stiff fusible craft interfacing. I cut the pieces from interfacing and ironed them straight onto my silk, then cut around the pieces.

dsc_0062Once you’ve finished cutting, you should have three sets like this. One set of stiffener pieces, one set of taffeta lining, and one set of silk SELF.

dsc_0063Insert one part of the magnetic snap to the top edge of the Front Flap lining, centering it over the X on the pattern. If you press down on the snap where you want it to go, it will create these little grooves that mark exactly where to cut the slits for the snap.

dsc_0065Next, press in the seam allowance on all edges of Strap Facing piece.

dsc_0064 I made a leather strap for this purse, see previous post on sewing View A of this pattern for instructions on how to make this strap. Stitch end of trap to Strap Facing piece.

dsc_0068 dsc_0069Edge stitch this in place on Back & Front Flap lining.

dsc_0070 Now pin the Back & Front Flap lining to the corresponding silk self piece. Ease silk into lining between dots. This will help the front flap to fold over smoothly. Stitch, leaving a large opening on bottom edge. Leave this opening larger than you’d think, you want to be able to fit your hand in later.

dsc_0072Clip corners and press one side of seam allowance in. Flip through to right side. Do the same for the Front and both Center pieces.

dsc_0074 dsc_0075 Now its time to insert the stiffener. I found it was easier to roll up the piece first. This part will take time, but it is really worth it to smooth out all the seam allowances. Try to push them, and smooth them behind the stiffener, toward to the lining side. Once the stiffener is in, install remaining side of snap to Front piece. To do this, pin the Front piece to the Back & Front Flap piece, as if you were to sew it, but we just want it pinned for placement purposes. Fold flap over to meet placement line, and press hard down on first part of snap that is already in the lining. This should make a faint imprint in the fabric, giving you an exact placement for the snap. Push this snap through both the silk and the stiffener. This will give it extra strength. Slipstitch all openings closed by hand.

dsc_0077Pin the two center panels together. Chalk 1″ in from the sides and bottom edge and stitch, pivoting where the chalk lines intersect. This creates the secret pocket!

dsc_0078Stitch the Front piece to one section of the Centers. You’ll want to do this from the right side of this bag, so that the topstitching looks even on the front of the bag. Tuck the other section of the Center under and away to be able to get in a topstitch around the sides and bottom edge.

dsc_0079Stitch the remaining Center section to the back in the same manner as the previous step, but this time continue topstitching around the front flap.

dsc_0082Now you can put any sort of embellishment on the front of this bag, but I chose to do the same bow as on the original again, since I had a scrap of a perfectly matching leather! To make the bow, fold both loops over on themselves butting the edges together and zigzag (going through both layers).

dsc_0083Now stack these three layers together and take a few stitches down the center.

dsc_0084Stitch one end of the Center Tie to the back of the bow. Wrap it around, pretty snuggly, and take a few stitches by hand on either side of the tie. Trim away excess length.

dsc_0085 dsc_0086 And finally stitch the bow to the bag. Center the bow over the placement marking, and lift up both loops and take a few stitches through the base of bow. And your all done! 😀


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